Dec 27, 2009

8.30 Downtown Cairo orientation meeting. Ann Wright announces that Egyptian Government (EG) has pulled bus permits for Elarish trip and forced travel agencies to refund our money. We are stranded in Cairo. EG also revoked security permission to hold a 1,000 member meeting in the evening. EG also announced border open for crossing - if you can get there! General dismay, EG had knowledge of plans a month earlier and has received the names and passport info of all participants. More than half the people already in Cairo, the rest already airborne on their way. Discussion of arriving in Elarish as individuals and how easy/safe it is (I don't think it is). Information given on how to get there. Day schedule outlined. On way out, I can hear hotel clerk reporting whatever English he understood to a uniformed policeman.

11.00 Kasr Elnil Bridge, downtown: Plan is a postcard memorial to Gaza. Notes tied to bridge railings. Passersby stop and ask. One Jerusalemite family happened to be among them and expressed deep gratitude. I left at 11.30. I later learned that security forces came en masse, escorted foreigners off the bridge, and tore up the notes.

12.00 I have some time on hand. I wander into the main GFM downtown hotel (occupies the 7-10 stories of a tall building). Plainclothes officers flood the lobby, and the front desk. I leave.

13.00 I meet an Egyptian activist who has close connections to some opposition MPs. Tells me that the situation looks bleak and that EG has full intention to stop the march and is not only bluffing or using the potential march as a bargaining chip with Israel.

16.30 Corniche Elnil @Grand Hyatt. Plan is to board sail boats "felukkas" and release floating candles on the Nile at sunset. I arrive early, only to be told by a few early birds that vigil was aborted. Boat service owner with whom we agreed refunded money. Other service providers along entire bank won't let one boat out. Say EG agents stopped by earlier and told them to ground all boats, and they know better than to defy them. No time to call this off or inform other participants before they arrive. Other participants start to arrive in growing numbers and so do security forces. We are set up for a stand-off.

17.00 Corniche Elnil @Grand Hyatt. Crowd keeps growing and no boats to take them. Assemble on sidewalk on the Nile side of Corniche street, security forces begin to arrive and confine marchers to a pocket on sidewalk. No violence, but no more marchers allowed to join the main group. Medea Benjamin stands on a tree stump and addresses crowd, explains boat situation. Many cameras filming. Security officer in plainclothes springs in front of her, facing crowd, hoists camera up, looks in viewfinders as if aiming a rifle, snaps flashes at everyone.

17.30 I cross the street to the other side and start filming. I carry an amateur camera so it is not immediately be clear if I am with the marchers or an amused passerby. A few marchers cross the street and unfold two rainbow "PEACE" flags in Arabic and English for drivers by to see. A plainclothes officer crosses the street and snaps point-blank cell phone images of them. Hedy Epstein, 85 year old Holocaust survivor arrives straight from the airport. Top brass arrives. I count 4 generals (liwaa') and more lieutenant generals ('ameeed). Dozens of plainclothes police officers (who make sure you recognize them). Numerous uniformed soldiers and plainclothes agents, who are essentially hired thugs to do the dirty work when needed while appearing to be civilian on camera. We light our candles and hold them in hand for a sidewalk vigil.

18.00 Security forces link arms and prevent marchers from leaving if they wished. Negotiations begin. Both sides understood either a little English or a little Arabic, but the negotiations get complicated. Marchers ask for place to assemble in the evening and discuss next step (Police have revoked previously granted license). The few Egyptian or Egyptian-born marchers -EG had stipulated to the GFM organizers that there be no Egyptian participants- step in to translate between the two parties, potentially exposing themselves in the process. Police make "don't call us, we'll call you" promises if marchers agree to disperse and not reassemble. Al-Jazeera crew (and others) makes interviews with marchers. Police officers are still civil, but patience running out. Soldiers firmly enforcing siege of marchers, yet some express sympathetic views when not within earshot of officers.

18.30 We agree to disperse, in groups of 5 or fewer at a time. We pretend to believe the promises. Organization passes the message to reassemble in an hour in front of Mujamma' Altahrir for an open air meeting. Some, including me, thought it is not a wise step, and expressed this thought. Brief consideration to cancel but decision to go on. It turned out quite well for us, and my fears proved too prudent. Meeting decides to break into regional and professional groups and exchange future plans through contact persons. Decision to go in the morning to the bus company with our packs even though the buses won't show up, in a symbolic move. I won't be joining this group. Security agents begin addressing me and asking questions to make sure of their understanding of the publicly announced plans. They clearly noticed that I sound Egyptian. I begin to wonder if I overexposed myself. I leave shortly after.

19.00 We get word that the French buses did not arrive, and that the French, 300 strong, are threatening to occupy their embassy and demanding that the ambassador come down to meet them at this late hour. Police, in riot gear for the first time, are deployed and confines them to the sidewalk in front of the embassy. This probably has to do with the Israeli embassy being only a few blocks away.

Notes:
These diaries were recorded first-hand in Cairo, Egypt, during the period Dec 29 2009 – Jan 4 2010.
The text of these diaries was first progressively posted online (Facebook). It was later reviewed and edited before posting to Indymedia.
Names appearing in these diaries are those of public figures or of “out-of-the-closet” activists. Names of people who do not meet this description were intentionally withheld in consideration of privacy.
Copyright © February 2010 by Mohamed M Talaat. Quoting from these diaries is absolutely permitted. Please maintain proper sourcing.